Best surfing compared to other sports, is slightly dangerous as per some surfers. Because we exist in the medium of water, whereas other games take place on a field or in a gym, if you go down, you go down somewhere safe. You go down out there in surfing, and you are immediately in the wrong spot.
Now, ignoring the ‘you are in the water’ part. For 99.9% of us, the danger isn’t much more an issue than any other activity. That said, you absolutely must be aware of the hard stuff.
Hard Stuff: Best Surfing
- Your Board (it’s the enemy!)
- The bottom – the reef is prickly, and sand is a neck breaker.
- Other surfers
- Today’s other surfers.
- Swimmers are splashing around at the kill zone.
- People are riding boats on the waves. You have checked the line and seen boats.
Don’t ride gigantic waves, and the bottom won’t be an issue. Be aware of what’s around you and err on the side of caution. Rest all the other stuff will never matter.
Tips For Best Surfing
If you happen to eat it at the top of the wave, tuck your head and bring your shoulders up. Bring your arms up as well to prevent a possible pile drive at the seafloor. Don’t over-tighten. Though, as being too rigid will cause more damage on impact.
If you bail and lose your board, DO NOT surface without hands (or fists) in front of your face and around your head. Fins can slash you up (better your hands/forearms than your pretty face). A board up in the wind can come down and knock you out.
The general rule for ALL ocean watersports actually, hands out ALWAYS. We have seen so many people snap their necks over the years. That wouldn’t have if they just kept their hands out (not surfing, actually, just riding waves with their damn hands down).
Surfing is a relatively safe sport. We would say it’s much more reliable than snowboarding. It can get a little gnarly when the lineup is too crowded, or the conditions are more significant than what you’re comfortable. Here are some pointers that could help you stay safer surfing.
Don’t surf waves you can’t handle. It is critical. If you’re a beginner, don’t go out on 6-8 ft days. Work your way up to bigger waves and always know your limits.
Don’t panic when you wipeout. Panic increases your chances of drowning. Just let go, relax, and you’ll be up for air before you know it.
Some More Tips
Be aware of your surroundings. Take note of the kooks (beginners) bailing on their boards and steer clear from them. Watch who’s dropping in on others and avoid them. Look out for rocks and other hazards. “Know” the break before you venture.
Most importantly, have fun! You might get a ding here and there now and then. but it shouldn’t be too bad.