Knowledge is power, and there’s no better way to get knowledge than to read. You might want to check out these inspiring books about surfing that every surfer should read. Each book will give you the inspiration you need to be better at surfing. Surfing literature is surprisingly enjoyable and entertaining enough. These books contain a lot of information about the world of surfing. You will learn a lot about surfing techniques and how it relates to life.
Books About Surfing Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
This book is authored by William Finnegan, an active political journalist. On the side, he is an avid surfer and he has encountered the waves from various oceans all over the world. This book narrates his experience in the world of surfing. His excellent writing skills have brought to life priceless lessons about surfing. He grew up in Honolulu and is naturally surrounded by water and surfing. His youth was riddled with social problems that he later conquered with the help of a strong support system. Read this if you want a glimpse into an American boyhood with a passion for surfing.
Tapping the Source: A Novel by Kenn Nunn
This book is a National Book Award finalist and it is actually the inspiration for the movie Point Break. It narrates the life of Tucker who is based in Huntington Beach. The story unfolds as he seeks for his missing sister who may have been murdered by three men. The bizarre plot is deemed out of place in a shiny surfing place like Huntington Beach. This is a thrilling read that you might want to get into if you are an avid surfing enthusiast.
This is an inspiring story of the author’s life. He ran off to Hawaii with a book and enough money for a surfboard. That began his journey of surfing various waves across the world. This book is perfect if you want to discover your true self and if you want to learn how to meditate. The author narrates that the waves are a perfect place to meditate. Read this book if you want to be inspired by the author’s life. This book is littered with life facts and inspiring quotes that can help you get through a rough patch in your life. This book is good for surfers because a lot of the principles discussed are based on the author’s personal interaction with the waves.