The best way to understand the pros and cons of big wave surfing is to identify the terms used. For simplicity, the most common words used are ‘big wave.’
You may have heard surfers talking about surfing a big wave, and they would be referring to the height and volume of the wave. The word ‘wave’ means a huge mass of water. A wave that breaks over a beach is a big wave.
A big wave means water that is too deep to swim in. These waves are almost always violent and can cause injury and even death. Though many people don’t think about it, the biggest danger associated with a big wave is crashing into the reef. You can’t see or feel the reef, but it can take its toll quickly, and your face can leave the beach.
A small wave is a wave that breaks at just the right spot. For example, if a big wave comes off the sea surface and meets the dunes on the side, a small wave will form right next to it. In this instance, a small wave is a good thing because it is not so large and so shallow that you drown or get hit by the waves.
Big Wave Surfing
There are many types of surfing a big wave, hanging out on the beach, surfing a big wave in the ocean, surfing a big wave on the shore, surfing a big wave in the ocean, and surfing a big wave in a waterpark. There are also bigger waves than just off the beach, like freestyle, break, wind, and no-hands.
If you are planning on riding a wave, you must know how to ride a wave. Different waves have different characteristics. Bigger waves can carry you down farther. Big ones are better for beginners because you can control them better, but there are many dangers in big waves.
Your helmet can be ruined if you make the mistake of being on a big wave without a helmet or even if you are surfing a big wave without the proper equipment to protect you. Once the water gets hot, that’s when the big danger comes into play, and you need to change to a lower temperature before you have to swim for your life.
That brings up another important point about the danger and adventure at dangerous times. When you get ready to go surfing, you need to prepare for the water temperature, the conditions, and the possible dangers that could come along with the trip. You don’t want to have to leave the shore because you got wet and burned your face, which is why you need to practice as much as possible before you go surfing.
Another danger that surfers face is hypothermia. Just like in the ocean, the cold air that you are breathing on a big wave will cool you down so you won’t die. And, of course, those who have never surfed a big wave will be very glad they left their life jackets behind!
Although most of the media talk about what big wave surfers do when they get a big wave, that is not the whole story. They do know what happens after they get a big wave and how to handle it.
Surfing a big wave is just like taking your motorcycle to the highway for a ride. You need to learn how to ride it, how to stop and maneuver it, and how to steer it into a place where it won’t hurt anyone.
One problem that you will encounter when surfing a big wave is that a lot of water will push against you and damage your surfboard. For many beginners, it can be difficult to control themselves and really enjoy the ride when the water is rising. They will be safe with good protection and a little time to warm up.